Nozzle temperature atm is 210c,buildplate is 59c. Ps. Does the bow curl upwards slightly when it's printing on the bad one?

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by ido » Wed Sep 13, 2017 1:04 pm, Post And why do you have the tape installed, is your heated bed defective?

Instead i get this or a bigger mess if i leave it for the night (it says 8 hours). Thanx for the advice.

Now my son will finally have his robot... in 8 hours, Ok now we are talking! 15-50% infill. Agreed, that's PLA with insufficient cooling. Happy printing!

Can you take a photo of the bottom? I would adjust the tension to the middle and try to print again. Settings: Hatchbox PLA @ 195C. Got rid of the tape.

Here you can download the STL-file and read more about 3D printing. Any ideas? It looks like an Ultimaker 2+? What 3D printer do you have?

Let us know. With ABS I can't seem to get the benchys to print well.

by slippyr4 » Tue Sep 12, 2017 8:54 am, Post

By 3D-printing this STL file you will be able to benchmark your 3D printer and materials and compare the … So, for things like a Benchy where you're trying to achieve a nice looking model, you should dial your temperature down to the low end of the range for that filament. The difference between machine producton dates was on the old (black) feeder of the UM2, on the UM2+ feeder (white) it should be set to the center position for PLA.

I changed color and it seems to be working now...  Innofill3d green. (where actually PTFE should be TFM after it was upgraded in the + upgrade). It looks like it mostly starts when it has to do retractions, which could indicate it has troubles passing by the PTFE coupler. I recently started tuning for a new filament, when I noticed some zits on the front of the #3D Benchy. ***No idea and can't check atm. We're looking for ... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2316970, Do you use 3D printing at work? On the first photo it looks like your print is just not attaching to the buildplate / tape.

Here you can download the STL-file and read more about 3D printing. Brings us back to the previous question, what feeder do you have installed and what is the tension you have set it to? Do you have the original feeder on your Ultimaker?

My first advice would be to level your bed properly. I have had some trouble doing it. It looks like there are 2 problems. #3DBenchy is a 3D model specifically designed for testing and benchmarking 3D printers.

45mm/s outer.

If you agree with the use of tracking cookies, click “I agree, continue browsing”. Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide. Bed temp: 60C. I never thought of orienting my print on the bed, going to try that as soon as I get home. Some fillament got chewed up inside.

How do i know should i use the setting i have now or the middle. Skangster, June 1, 2017 in Ultimaker 3D printers, Any idea why this is happening?

Yes once. If your fanshroud is touching the left frame, you should probably gently bend your fanshroud down. I have usually used either fast print settings or normal. Trouble with prints aka poor Benchy The higher this indicator, the less tension you have on your filament. You can find more information about cookies on our Privacy and Cookie Policy page. I believe innofill has some good filaments too, but it could be just a bad reel.

#3DBenchy is designed by Creative Tools – a 3D hardware and software provider – as a calibration and torture-test part for 3D printers.

Given the fact you are suffering from under extrusion I am inclined to think you have too little tension. by slippyr4 » Wed Sep 13, 2017 9:09 am, Post Is your 3rd fan in your print head still working? 60mm/s.

That particular benchy is printed at 15% infill, but I've gone as high as 50%, and it doesn't change it at all. Should be pretty easy to fix. I have never seen this problem before.

Did you ever take your feeder apart? This is PLA, right? If it is old it could be dried out, when it has been out of the bag too long, has laid in the sun or near a radiator for example. ***I had the printer for about a month now.

by ido » Tue Sep 12, 2017 7:56 am, Post That will improve cooling and should fix your problem. Shouldn't i use tape? #3DBenchy is licensed under a Creative Commons License. ***Ok.

I printed the 3d benchy with a 0.2 and 0.1 layer height.

Is the adjustment screw still in the housing?

I think it was the fillament all the time. Too little or to much... ***Yeah i give it a go when im back home again. Thanx for the advice. so cooling, mmm, now how can I address that best, dont know if adding another fan is easy, I can try with en external fan first. I will have a look into this setting.

You have a pretty big temperature range for printing PLA, around 30-40 degrees. Read on here that there was some difference between machines made before a spesific date. by ido » Thu Sep 14, 2017 9:43 am, Return to “Help requests / Purchasing assistance”, Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests.

It is a small recognizable object that you can download for free, make and share. I can't say for sure that this is what's happening here, but I find with some prints I get a self-worsening curling problem: Those are some good tips, thank you. The lower the temp, the cleaner looking the prints as the filament will dry very quickly, the higher the temp the stronger the prints.

I have an Ender 3 Pro, and have been printing with it successfully for a few years now.

PTFE looks super clean, so that is not it.

Given the fact you are suffering from under extrusion I am inclined to think you have too little tension.

Could you share a photo with us?

Could you take maybe one or two photo's of your prints where it goes wrong for some more perspective? And yes i got everything back together. Never thought of it, but indeed, somewhere the printer connects the end to the start of the line. Also, in S3D, add either coasting or negative restart distance after retraction (start with 0.2mm coasting, and 10% of your retraction distance 0.1mm on the negative restart) - To find out which one is the culprit, watch your print closely. I usually print PLA at 180 but you should look at the recommended range for yours. 80mm/s infill. SandervG posted a topic in Ultimaker Essentials, Tuesday at 02:50 PM, SandervG posted a topic in Official news, July 22. We have compiled an extensive list of the most common 3D printing issues along with the software settings that you can use to solve them. This guide outlines some of the most common issues faced by 3D printing practitioners and highlights steps that may be taken to resolve those issues. Until now i had just printed smaller stuff that apparently was held in place better than big surfaced things (like the bed leveling testprint). Ultimaker uses functional, analytical and tracking cookies. by Aziraphale » Tue Sep 12, 2017 5:32 pm, Post

Is your Ultimaker standing stable on all four corners of the frame? It doesn't matter if you are using 1 Ultimaker or 10, there is inspiration in everything.



Something you could print to check if your bed is level. 3D Printing Troubleshooting The guide is organized into a table with the following format. Post Happy you found the core of your problem. But still prints look like this. This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies. Ok now we are talking! Thanx again for the help and patience. Daaamn this is frustrating...  Now my fanshield is scraping on the left side...  Time to change hobby? I haven't noticed until now that the tape was a big problem for good prints. Got rid of the tape. How many print hours have you been using your PTFE coupler for?

Even the spring. Includes both FDM and SLA. At what speed and temperature did you print it? The 0.2 one does not have this problem, it does have a few artifacts. Could you share with us some key settings from Cura?

If you do not consent with the use of tracking cookies, click “Refuse”. I started with the stock prusa slic3r settings, then decreased the temperature for each print.



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